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Keshi Pearl

Non-beaded pearl formed accidentally in a cultured oyster after bead rejection - solid nacre, but a by-product of culturing · Solid aragonite nacre with conchiolin · Mohs 2.5-4

Also sold as: Poppy seed pearl

In short

Keshi Pearl is the gem and ornamental form of non-beaded pearl formed accidentally in a cultured oyster after bead rejection - solid nacre, but a by-product of culturing, Solid aragonite nacre with conchiolin, and sits at 2.5-4 on the Mohs scale. The colour is governed by conchiolin pigments plus strong nacre interference; often high lustre because it is solid nacre. Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia (Tahitian keshi) is the source that matters commercially. Must be disclosed as cultured, not natural - CIBJO and GIA treat keshi as a cultured pearl product because it only arises inside a cultured oyster.

The facts

Species
Non-beaded pearl formed accidentally in a cultured oyster after bead rejection - solid nacre, but a by-product of culturing
Chemistry
Solid aragonite nacre with conchiolin
Hardness
2.5-4 on the Mohs scale
Refractive index
1.52-1.69
Specific gravity
2.65-2.78
Crystal system
Aggregate (orthorhombic aragonite)
Cleavage
None
Cause of colour
Conchiolin pigments plus strong nacre interference; often high lustre because it is solid nacre
Origins
Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia (Tahitian keshi) · Broome, Western Australia, and Indonesia (South Sea keshi) · Ise-Shima, Japan (akoya keshi)
Treatment
Must be disclosed as cultured, not natural - CIBJO and GIA treat keshi as a cultured pearl product because it only arises inside a cultured oyster. French Polynesia has at times restricted keshi export. Tahitian keshi is often dyed. No CITES.
Confused with
Natural pearls (this is the misrepresentation), Small baroque freshwater pearls
Price guidance
$5-150 per carat depending on origin, lustre and size

What keshi Pearl actually is

Mineralogically, keshi Pearl is non-beaded pearl formed accidentally in a cultured oyster after bead rejection - solid nacre, but a by-product of culturing — Solid aragonite nacre with conchiolin, crystallising in the aggregate (orthorhombic aragonite) system.

The colour is caused by conchiolin pigments plus strong nacre interference; often high lustre because it is solid nacre. That is worth knowing because it determines what heating, light and time can and cannot do to the stone.

A refractometer reads 1.52-1.69, and the specific gravity sits near 2.65-2.78; cleavage is none.

Where keshi Pearl comes from

The recognised sources are Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia (Tahitian keshi), Broome, Western Australia, and Indonesia (South Sea keshi) and Ise-Shima, Japan (akoya keshi).

Origin affects price in this material, so we name the locality on every quote rather than the country. "African" or "Asian" tells a buyer nothing.

How keshi Pearl is treated

Must be disclosed as cultured, not natural - CIBJO and GIA treat keshi as a cultured pearl product because it only arises inside a cultured oyster. French Polynesia has at times restricted keshi export. Tahitian keshi is often dyed. No CITES.

None of this is a problem when it is said out loud. It becomes one the moment it is left out.

What keshi Pearl is confused with

The usual confusions are Natural pearls (this is the misrepresentation) and Small baroque freshwater pearls.

The separation is rarely a matter of opinion: refractive index 1.52-1.69 and specific gravity 2.65-2.78 settle most of it in a minute, and magnification settles the rest.

What keshi Pearl is used for

Keshi Pearl is bought by jewellery — and each of those trades wants a different form of the same material.

We quote each application in the unit that trade actually buys in, by the carat.

Durability and care

Hardness 2.5-4; cleavage none. That combination decides what it can safely be set into.

Below about 5.5 a stone will be scratched by ordinary household dust, which is largely quartz. That does not make it unusable — it makes it a pendant, an earring or an object rather than a ring worn every day.

Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners on anything fracture-filled, stabilised, dyed or visibly included.

What keshi Pearl costs

Indicative pricing for keshi Pearl is $5-150 per carat depending on origin, lustre and size.

That is a range, not a quote. Colour, size, clarity, cut and origin move the figure a long way inside it, and the only honest price is one given against a specific stone. Send us what you need and we will price it.

Questions

Is keshi Pearl treated, and how?

Must be disclosed as cultured, not natural - CIBJO and GIA treat keshi as a cultured pearl product because it only arises inside a cultured oyster. French Polynesia has at times restricted keshi export. Tahitian keshi is often dyed. No CITES.

Where does keshi Pearl come from?

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia (Tahitian keshi), Broome, Western Australia, and Indonesia (South Sea keshi) and Ise-Shima, Japan (akoya keshi). Origin affects price, so we name the locality rather than the country on every quote.

Is keshi Pearl hard enough to wear every day?

Not really. At 2.5-4 on the Mohs scale it is softer than the quartz dust in ordinary household dirt, so it scratches with wear. It suits pendants, earrings and objects better than a daily ring.

How much does keshi Pearl cost?

Indicatively $5-150 per carat depending on origin, lustre and size. Colour, size, clarity and origin move the price a long way within that, so treat it as a range and ask for a quote against a specific stone.

What is keshi Pearl confused with?

Most often Natural pearls (this is the misrepresentation) and Small baroque freshwater pearls. A refractive index of 1.52-1.69 and a specific gravity near 2.65-2.78 separate it quickly.

Related stones

Looking for keshi pearl?

Tell us the size, the quality and what it is for. We source it, photograph it and quote it — with the locality named.